During the American Revolutionary War, the Marquis de Lafayette came from France to the New World to offer his personal services as a major general in the Continental Army, as well as some of his private fortune for the American cause. As a show of appreciation, in 1794 the U.S. Congress granted Lafayette approximately $24,000. A few years later, in 1803, he was awarded land in Louisiana.
As it turned out, the American government was not done expressing its gratitude to Lafayette. In 1824, he was presented with another $200,000 and an entire township (thirty-six square miles) of land to be selected at his discretion. His selection? A section of land in north Florida that now makes up a portion of the city of Tallahassee. Ironically, the Marquis never visited the land he selected.
Tracing the Boundaries
Today, the land granted to the Marquis lies in the middle of Tallahassee. Insides the Cascades Park recreation area, a plaque marks the southwest corner of the Lafayette Land Grant. From this marker, the territory runs north for six miles along the prime meridian, which corresponds to the present day Meridian Road. Just past the corner of Meridian Road and Maclay Road is the northwestern boundary of the Lafayette’s land. If you head east from there, and continue through the Killearn Estates neighborhood, you will reach the grant’s northeastern boundary, near the intersection of Roberts Road and Centerville Road. Turn south for another six miles, and you are in the vicinity of Apalachee Parkway and April Road, just south of Lake Lafayette. Head west back to Cascades Park and you have traveled the 24 mile perimeter of Lafayette’s Florida retreat.
By 1855, all the land included in the Lafayette Township (over 23,000 acres) had been sold to individual buyers. Even though Lafayette never set foot on his land, his legacy lives on in the Tallahassee/Leon County area. Lake Lafayette, located in the land grant area, is a prairie lake offering opportunities for recreation such as picnicking, hiking, fishing, kayaking, and mountain biking. Lafayette Park, dedicated in 1934 on the western boundary of the grant, is a city park that features fitness trails, tennis courts, basketball courts, and play grounds.
Other Areas Named for Lafayette
Outside of Tallahassee, other memorials to Lafayette include Lafayette County in the north central portion of the state. Counties in Alabama, Georgia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana were also named for the Marquis.
In northern Leon County, Florida, a certain body of water performs a disappearing act every few years. Lake Jackson is a medium sized, fairly shallow lake near Tallahassee. It covers a surface area of approximately 6.2 square miles, and spans roughly 8 miles at its longest point.
Beneath the lake’s surface are large sinkholes that remain clogged by sediments most of the time. However, every few years, the underlying groundwater drops to a point that causes the sinkholes’ sediments to collapse. When that occurs, water in the lake begins to rapidly drain through into the subsurface aquifer. Depending on the level of groundwater when the collapse occurs, the lake may drain minimally or be almost completely emptied.
In June 2021, Lake Jackson began to drain on Monday, June 7. By the end of the day, an extraordinary amount of water had been lost, and the depths of the sinkhole were being exposed for all to see. Several days later, the sinkhole and surrounding lake bed were bone dry, and the area took on an almost other-worldly appearance.
We traveled to Lake Jackson about two weeks after the lake began to empty and were amazed at the main sinkhole’s depth and appearance. It was approximately 40 feet deep and quite wide. Brisk “rivers” of outflow cascaded into the sinkhole, carving deep crevices and creating several small waterfalls. One could have easily imagined themselves standing alongside a desert canyon somewhere in the American southwest.
Dry lake bed
No shortage of warning signs!
The drained portion of the lake bed was covered with grainy pillows of soft, black dirt. It reminded us of lava fields left from the eruption of a volcano, only soft and squishy rather than hard and sharp edged. Despite more warning signs than you could shake a stick at, many visitors scooted right past the yellow caution tape surrounding the large sinkhole and climbed to the bottom to get a better look. We stayed at the sinkhole’s rim and took our pictures from there.
Unfortunately, fish and other critters were impacted by the lake’s draining. By the time we visited, the City of Tallahassee had already removed a large number of dead fish from the lake bed. Those left in the small pockets of the lake were quickly succumbing to a lack of oxygen in the shallow water.
Lake Jackson before draining
One of many “waterfalls” created as the lake drained
The Garden of Eden Trail is located in a rural setting in the Florida panhandle near the Apalachicola River and is part of the Apalachicola Bluffs and Ravines Preserve. The steephead ravines were created by water seeping into the soil in the uplands until hitting the limestone under the surface. The water then traveled along the limestone until it found an opening along the banks of the river. However, as time went on, the water washed out the sand above it and developed into a small stream. These streams moved further away from the riverbank creating the geologically rare “steephead ravines” in the hillsides.
Trail along ravine hillside
The trail begins in the upland sandy area, mostly populated with pines and maintained by prescribed burns. However, the scenery changes abruptly around the half-mile mark. For the next mile or so, you will wind down and up, down and up, through the steephead ravines and crossing streams. This is by far the most strenuous walk in Florida, and parts are as steep as anything we’ve hiked in the Smoky Mountains.
When you emerge from the last ravine, you enter a flat sandy area much like the start of the trail.
Upland Area between the Ravines and the Bluff
Trail through the Upland Area
Much of the vegetation found along this portion of the Apalachicola River is similar to that found in the mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee.
Wild Azalea along the trail
Florida Anise along the trail
Log along the Trail
Steephead portion of trail with hillside in background
Also at the Bluff is a bench dedicated to George Willson. George Willson was a land conservationist and was the Director of Land Acquisition for the Florida chapter of The Nature Conservancy (TNC) from 1984-1999 and passed away in 2019.
George Willson BenchAnother View from the Bluff
From here, you can continue on a rugged loop up and down more ravines or turn back and retrace your steps to the parking area. The loop is strenuous and has suffered some erosion during the storms of the last few years, but offers more incredible views.
Path to the River Loop
Steep Uphill Section of River Loop Trail
Recommendation and Caution: This trail provides a unique opportunity to explore terrain that’s unlike any other in Florida. But…some words of warning. These ravines are incredibly steep and not like anything you will find elsewhere in the Sunshine State. Take lots of water, more than you typically would, and we don’t recommend tackling it in the summer months unless you are in very good physical condition. Once you are out of the ravine section of the trail, there is little shade until you reach the Bluff. In other words, it’s HOT in late spring and summer! Also, dogs are NOT allowed on the trail, due to the sensitive ecological nature of the area.
How did the Garden of Eden Trail get its name?
In the 1950s, Elvy Edison Callaway opened a park on his land near Bristol along the Apalachicola River, which he called the Garden of Eden. He based his claims on two factors. One was the land’s location. The Bible describes the Garden of Eden as being watered by a river that flowed from four headwaters. He believed these were the Flint and Chattahoochee Rivers, and Fish Pond and Spring Creeks, coming together to form the Apalachicola River. Second, the Florida Torreya (Torreya taxifolia) is a conifer that’s found only in a few places in the world, including this area of the Panhandle. The Torreya tree is also sometimes referred to as Gopherwood, the wood the Bible says Noah used to build the Ark. Therefore, Callaway deemed the area to be the original Garden of Eden.
Very nice family vacation area – Something for everyone
Less crowded and commercialized than some Florida beach destinations
Easily accessed via major interstates/highways
Beachfront rentals available at reasonable rates
Cape Canaveral is midway between Jacksonville and Miami along what is known as Florida’s Space Coast. It is probably most famously known for being the home of the Kennedy Space Center, the hub of the nation’s human space program. A visit to the Space Center is a fascinating trip through the history of the country’s space program and can provide insights into the future as well.
But Cape Canaveral offers more to the visitor, including gorgeous, quiet beaches, a popular cruise ship port, lots of restaurants, and even a brand new distillery.
Beautiful Beaches!
Colorful Logo at Oceanside Distillery
Oceanside Distillery claims to be the only distillery on the space coast and has only recently opened to the public. We took a tour and sampled some of the spirits produced there. The distillery is very different from ones we have visited elsewhere, where they pride themselves on their history, traditions, and age-old “hands-on” processes. Oceanside uses some of the most technologically advanced equipment available and takes a very modern, but precise, approach to distilling. This in no way means they take short cuts when it comes to barrel aging. Their whiskeys are aged in accordance with industry standards, and we can vouch for the end product being as rich and refined as spirits produced by more established distillers. The master distiller is quite enthusiastic about his work, and that combined with his deep knowledge made for a very interesting tour.
Cruise Ship Docked Offshore
To us, the best part of Cape Canaveral is the beach. We have been during Labor Day and Memorial Day weekends, and it was not very crowded either time. The beach is very wide and flat so there is plenty of space to spread out. We thought the surf to be more gentle than in other nearby areas, making it a nice place to swim and play for all ages. The area we stayed in was free from high-rise condos or hotels blocking your view of the ocean, which gave Cape Canaveral an old-time Florida feel. Since we visited during the pandemic, we got to see cruise ships docked offshore while patiently waiting for travel restrictions to be lifted.
We also visited Port Canaveral, where the cruise industry is usually in full force. I imagine its very exciting to sit in one of the waterside bars and watch all the travelers and ships scurry about. Even though there were no cruises taking place, it was still a nice place to sip a cold drink and watch the fishing and pleasure boats go and come.
Port Canaveral
Recommendation: Great long weekend or week destination for a family. The beaches are sprawling and not at all crowded. Beachfront condos and other rentals can be found for a surprisingly reasonable rate, many with pools. Kids will love the the sand and surf, and there’s plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops within a short distance for mom and dad. Among the unique and unexpected sites around Canaveral Beach are the ever wandering and incredibly colorful peacocks, which trot happily along beach access roads and lay their eggs in sandy roadside nests. And of course, there’s always the nearby Kennedy Space Center. Available tours provide a first-hand look at space travel and vehicles, past and present. Visitors can learn about space travel history, how space crafts are assembled, the challenges and limitations of space travel, and America’s future space exploration goals.
Falls accessible via well maintained trails and boardwalk
Definitely not something you’d expect to find in Florida
View from above the falls (Courtesy Florida State Park Service)
The words waterfall and Florida aren’t typically thought of together. Florida is the flattest state in the union, so finding water cascading over a cliff isn’t something most visitors expect. Folks generally come for things like gorgeous beaches, colossal theme parks, legendary Key West, and orange groves. As well they should.
View from near the bottom of the falls
Historical Marker at Falling Waters State Park
All that aside, we’re here to tell you there REALLY ARE waterfalls in the Sunshine State. And, Falling Waters State Parkis home to Florida’s largest and longest waterfall. But it’s not your typical one.
Glistening water spills from a winding stream over 75 feet into a vast sinkhole and disappears into the ground. Believe it or not, no one knows precisely where the water goes from there!
Frankly, we thought this was the only real waterfall in Florida, but it turns out there are a few more. They’re just not as impressive as this one.
Steinhatchee Falls, near Cedar Key
Falling Creek Falls near Lake City
Boonie Falls, near Titusville
Falling Waters State Park is located near Chipley, Florida, just a short distance from Interstate 10.
Access to the falls is surprisingly easy. A short, well maintained trail gives way to a wide wooden boardwalk that leads you on a scenic walk to the falls.
View from Parking Lot Picnic Area
There are several stops along the boardwalk for different views of the falls and surrounding sinkholes. The boardwalk continues through areas of long-leaf pines and wire-grass. It is easy to picture what the area looked like when the first European settlers entered this region.
The boardwalk continues past a small lake, where visitors can picnic, swim, and fish. The trail continues to a campground.
At one point in time, there was a whisky distillery and an oil well near the falls. The well never struck oil, and all that is left is the shaft sticking up from the ground, which was capped in 1921.
Oil Well Circa 1919
Recommendation: If find yourself in the north Florida Panhandle and are looking for an out of the way, relaxing, and incredibly scenic way to spend an hour or so, you should check out this park. The stroll to the falls is easy walking, and the trailhead begins at the parking lot. Once you arrive, you’ll find a sheet of water spilling delicately over the rim of a cavernous sinkhole. A fairly short flight of wooden stairs allows a visitor to actually descend well into the sinkhole and view the falls from near the bottom. It’s a family friendly opportunity to glimpse a true geological rarity. Note: It’s advisable to contact the park in advance of visiting, as prolonged dry weather may limit the amount of water feeding into the falls.
Interesting historical landmarks and Ray Charles tribute statue located inside small, scenic local park.
Childhood home of Ray Charles a short distance from the park.
Somewhat challenging to find for those not familiar with the area.
Dog friendly.
Tammy’s friend and coworker, Ramona Powell Poole, suggested we visit Greenville, Florida, childhood home of Ray Charles. It turns out that the performer so famously known for singing about “Georgia” actually grew up in Florida.
Greenville is a small town in North Florida just off Interstate 10. Not knowing exactly where we were going or what we were looking for, we followed the posted directions to Greenville. The town is situated roughly at the intersection of U.S. 90 and U.S. 221.
After entering the town, we noticed a brown road sign that said “Ray Charles Memorial”. It pointed us down a side road, which we followed.
This route took us past what appeared to have once been the “downtown” area of Greenville. Most of the buildings were vacant and closed. Historical markers led us to Haffye Hays Park, founded in 1980.
The park features a memorial dedicated to Ray Charles, which includes a plaque and life-sized bronze statue.
The inscription on the plaque reads:
Ray Charles “R.C.” Robinson (September 30, 1930 – June 10, 2004)
“The musical genius known to the world as Ray Charles was a native son of Greenville and known to his childhood playmates simply as “RC”.
Shortly before his birth, Ray’s mother, ‘Reitha Robinson went to Albany, Georgia to stay with relatives. About one month later, ‘Reitha brought her son, Ray, back home to Greenville.
Ray grew up poor, and learned to play the piano from the owner of the Red Wing Cafe.
At age 7, Ray’s sight failed and he was sent to The School for Deaf and Blind in St. Augustine, where he continued his education and learned Braille. During holidays and summers, Ray returned to Greenville to visit his family and friends.
Ray was 15 when his mother died and he was on his own. He began to travel and exhibit his musical talents. The rest, as they say, is history. Over the years, Ray returned to his hometown from time to time, referring to it affectionately as “Greensville.”
The roots of Ray Charles’ musical genius started in Greenville, developing into a talent embraced by the world. He pioneered soul music and is considered one of the most outstanding musical talents of the century. His influence is felt in gospel, rhythm and blues, jazz, rock and roll and country music. The singer, pianistand bandleader was 74 when he died on June 10, 2004.
The life-size bronze likeness of Ray Charles at the keyboard was created by Bronze by Cooley and stands as a permanent memorial to the legendary musician from Greenville.”
The bronze statue is quite an impressive likeness. The locals have come to refer to it as “Happy Ray Charles in Bronze.”
According to RoadsideAmerica.com, “When Ray died in 2004, Mayor Elista Pritchett knew she had to do something to make people aware of his childhood in Greenville. As a small town with limited resources, Greenville’s prospects were grim. But Elesta was persistent, and Florida rallied to the cause. The state provided some money, and the sculpting team of Bradley Cooley and Brad Cooley Jr. in nearby Lamont offered to create a Ray Charles statue for free. It was unveiled in Greenville’s park on February 18, 2006.”
We strolled around the park’s pond, which appeared to be quite the popular gathering spot. Everyone we met was very friendly, and quite a few children played and rode their bikes on the park’s pathway.
We discovered that the park is named for Miss Haffye Hays. Her father, Elijah (E J) Hays, established the town as Greenville. Miss Hays died on October 14, 1962, unmarried at the age of 91. She is buried in Oak Ridge Cemetery in Madison County.
The Greenville water tower overlooks the park.
Also in the park is a sign highlighting important events in the town’s history. The town was originally called Sandy Ford, but changed its name to honor Greenville, SC, the city from which many of the prominent early settlers came.
The sign reads:
Town of Greenville (Frontier Sandy Ford)
“Begun as Sandy Ford, 1850, Samuel Williams was the first postmaster in 1854. Called Station 5 on the Pensacola-Georgia R.R., the name Greenville, for Greenville, S.C., came in the 1860’s. Elijah Hays helped its expansion after 1876. Incorporated in 1907, W.D. Griffin was the first mayor. An orange producing center prior to 1895, its chief supports now are timber, cattle, and flue-cured tobacco.”
After exploring the park area, we searched online for other local areas of interest. We’ll share what we found and where we went in future North Florida posts.
Recommendation: This makes for an interesting afternoon or morning excursion if you’re looking for things to do near Greenville, Florida. You will enjoy this if you have an interest in local area history and enjoy learning about prominent musical performers. A park visit only requires half an hour. Ray Charles’ childhood home is a few blocks from the park. Though not open for public viewing, it has been preserved as an historical structure and it’s possible to park and snap a few pictures.
